In Defence of Lambrusco

South Australia likes to think it invented the Sparkling Red. While it is admittedly something of a meme at this point, we still take a semi-ironic pride in producers like Bleasdale pushing Shiraz in particular to its limit, with the black velvet bubbles becoming synonymous with good times and bad decisions.

However, SA was not the first to take the plunge with this unconventional fizz. Germany Roter Sekt, wines generally made of the more elegant Pinot Noir. Even the esteemed Loire Valley makes bubbles from Cabernet Franc. And of course, Italy produced a wine so synonymous with the 70s that it’s ingrained in the collective consciousness of even those who weren’t alive to see it boom. The iconic sparkling red of Romagna: Lambrusco.

Despite many threats to come back into fashion over the last decade, Lambrusco is still treated as something of an outcast of the wine scene. While Australian Sparkling Reds have gained a significant foothold and following (to the degree of being available by allocation only in some cases), Lambrusco remains perched on the edge of the collective consciousness. The only Australian producer to make serious amounts of the stuff is Chalmers, and that’s partly because they’re responsible for the grape’s import to the country.

It has often been said that Lambrusco’s time will come again, and it makes sense to think that as consumers tend to drink less and look for lighter styles, its playful and refreshing nature will position Lambrusco as the next big thing. Unfortunately, the public perception of Lambrusco remains stubbornly prejudiced, and domestic alternatives continue to bully these bubbles out of the spotlight.

This does little justice to what should really be considered an entire category of wine. There are over 60 recognised varieties of Lambrusco grape in Italy, with references reaching all the way to the writer Cato in the Roman era. The wines are not always sparkling, certainly not always sweet, and not even always red (Lambrusco Bianco may have a niche foothold in the USA, but otherwise it is painfully hard to get hold of). Truly, the Australian public doesn’t know what it’s missing.

But we love an underdog here at Bottle Shock, so we’ll be joining its well-deserved annual celebration of Lambrusco with gusto. Raise a glass on Sunday 21 June to celebrate World Lambrusco Day, then join us on Sunday 28 June for an Italian-inspired Long Lunch where we’ll be taking the chance to drop the pretense and let the good stuff speak for itself.

Wine is meant to be fun, and few wines encapsulate fun better than Lambrusco. Kick back and unwind with a glass this month at Bottle Shock!